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Motorhome or Trailer- that is the question for you. Here are some of the
advantages and disadvantages of both, so you will be confident when
purchasing an RV. When comparing RVs, a motorhome or a travel trailer, should
you buy a motorhome or fifth wheeler? The advantages and disadvantages of
both are studied so that you can make your choice wisely when purchasing an
RV. Possessing a motorhome or fifth wheel is an achievement of a lifetime. It
can be similar to sojourning with your residence as you search the various
sites of our great land, America.

The two commonly known recreational vehicle classes are the motorized and
towable. Towable RVs are the travel trailers and the fifth wheel. The RV
travel trailer or fifth wheel has the attraction of getting towed by a pickup
or a car, thus giving the adaptability of possessing transportation for you
when you are parked at your campsite.

A motorhome is a recreational vehicle that is motorized. It has three
categories which can either be gas, diesel or Diesel Pushers which are the
most costly ones. Converted vans that are large and self-sustaining represent
the smaller types of motorhomes and then there are the ones that are built on
the chassis of a truck.. The motorized motor home needs a tow car for your
transportation after you set up in your campsite.

RVs are styled to your specifications for the best appearance and luxuries
you anticipate when possessing an RV. High standard artisanship, venues for
entertainment, and keenness to small bits of information can be applied into
an RV bearing in mind that each and every amenity comes with a price tag.

A travel trailer or fifth wheel is larger inside than a motorhome of the same
size because of the driving area, i.e. a 40 foot trailer or fifth wheel has
more livable space than a 40 foot motorhome. Towing a trailer with a car puts
a lot of wear and tear on the automobile because they are usually not
equipped for heavy duty towing.

The motor home is definitely more money because you are paying for the
driving mechanism and chassis. Trailers and motorhomes can be equipped with
the same options. So the question seems to be do I want to travel in a truck
pulling a large fifth wheel or ride in a motorhome pulling a tow car.

One thing is certain if you talk to a motorhome owner he will tell you that
you should definitely purchase a motorhome and the same goes for a travel
trailer or fifth wheel owner, he thinks the trailer is the only way to go.
No matter what you choose the experiences are out of this world.

Bettye Whitten A retired Secretary. My Husband of 57 years and I are now full time rvers. We enjoy traveling and seeing new places. I needed something to do so I started a website on rving and camping. We have been camping and rving for almost 50 years. Starting out with a tent, then trailers and now motorhomes.

I want to share with fellow campers and rvers, and maybe people interested in trying this exciting way of life, what I have learned over the years and the exciting places we have been.

Email support@rvingandcamping.com

http://www.rvingandcamping.com

With the popularity of movies like The Fast and The Furious, Gone in Sixty Seconds and The last Ride, there has been some reference to the good old muscle cars which were immortalized in movies like Bullit, Vanishing Point and of course The Dukes of Hazzard series. This top ten list has a look at some of the muscle car icons born from the late 60s and early 70s.

The main measure of these cars is power, with Brake Horse Power (bhp) being the term flung around most commonly. What this refers to is the power released by the engine before the gearbox, generator, differential, water pump, and other components sap its power. If you are used to Kilowatts, then take into consideration that 250kw translates to 335.26bhp.

The 1969 Pontiac GTO

Conceptualised to gain appeal to the younger market, Pontiac put a 6.3 litre V8 engine into the midsized Tempest shell, making for a cheap fast car. To the surprise of Pontiacs marketing team the GTO became massively popular and in 1969 they fitted it with a 6.5 litre V8 which could kick out 366bhp. The Judge was born.

The 1970 Buick GSX

Again the idea here was to squash a beast of an engine into a midsized body, in this case the Buick Skylark. In 1967 the Buick GS became recognised as a standalone model available as a sedan and convertible.

The 1970 model was given a monstrous 7.5 litre engine capable of producing 400bhp. The GSX body came in yellow or white only, adding to the image which made this car a distinct classic.

The 1967 Chevrolet Camaro

There were various options available to those purchasing a first generation Camaro, the Z28 package being the most exciting. With a 4.9 litre engine, power steering, disc brakes on the front and a four speed manual gearbox, the Z28 was made for racing producing up to 400bhp.

The Plymouth Roadrunner

Built to beat 14 seconds over a quarter mile, the Plymouth Roadrunner was stripped down to the bare essentials, sacrificing even the carpets in order to make this into a beast of a machine. It featured a beefed up steering, brake and suspension systems and a 6.3 litre engine which pushed 335bhp. An optional boost came from the 7.0 litre versions 425bhp.

The Dodge Challenger

Hitting the market in 1970, the Dodge Challenger was a hit from the get go, selling more than 80,000 in the first year. Although various options were made available, the R/T is the model which attracts the most attention with its 7.0 litre Hemi engine kicking out 425bhp. Later models lost the plot, with the 72 model dropping to a measly 240bhp. See the Challenger in the cult classic movie, Vanishing Point.

The 1966 Ford Fairlane GT

Launched in 62 with a 3.6 litre V8, the Ford Fairlane was given a makeover in 1966, complete with a 6.4 litre engine capable of 335bhp. As if this were not enough they decided to upgrade to a 7.0 litre NASCAR engine with 435bhp. Rigid front suspension and disc brakes gave the car better handling, and the brute power kicked the dial over 60mph (100km/h) in six seconds.

Oldsmobile 442

The Cutlass model was equipped with a police specification engine capable of 310bhp. The 442 refers to the four barrel carburettor, four speed manual gear box and the twin exhausts. The 442 had a reputation for its handling when compared to other muscle cars, thanks to its improved springs, shocks and the comforting safety of an anti-roll bar.

The 1968 edition was redesigned as a shapely coupe, with a 7.5 litre block blasting 390bhp.

Plymouth Barracuda

Although the Barracuda was launched in 1964, just a couple of weeks before the Ford Mustang, it was not until 1970 that Plymouth gained wider popularity with sexy lines and some serious growl under the hood in the form of a 7.2 litre 390bhp. The other choice was a smaller 7.0 litre Hemi block which knocked out some extra power at 425bhp!

Even with a revamped suspension the power was so much that the Cuda gained a reputation for difficult handling.

The 1970 Chevrolet Chevelle SS

The 1965 Chevelle SS sported a 6.5 litre block pushing 375bhp, which was all too much for the front end of the car, making for some pretty horrible handling. Luckily this was addressed with the revamping of the suspension and the addition of disk brakes on the front.

1969 saw the introduction of the top engine spec, which was featured in the El Camio pick-up as well. The 1970 SS was powered by a 7.4 litre V8 with 450bhp pulling the Chevell to 100km/h in just six seconds. Later models were adjusted for unleaded fuel and the power output suffered considerably.

Dodge Charger

Bo and Dukes ride of choice, the Charger was launched in 1966 and some 37,000 cars were sold in the first year. A 7.0 litre Hemi reputedly kicked out around 500bhp, though it was officially rated at 425bhp. This monster reached 100km/h in just five and a half seconds. The Hemi engine option was available until 1972.

MensLifestyle is a site for men who are looking to live a lifestyle of health, wealth and adventure. The idea is to bring together the tips, tools and products that will help you make more money, live healthier and enjoy your life that much more.

Planting a tree is a wonderful experience, and helps enhance the beauty of the earth we live on. But care and forethought should be exercised in advance to help insure that each tree can reach its full potential.

In general, it's best to try to plant young trees if you can. It's certainly possible to plant a mature tree, but it's very difficult to do for the average homeowner, and very expensive to pay for if you hire someone to do it for you. If it is necessary to have a mature tree for any reason, then it may justify the expense. But otherwise planting smaller trees that can grow into your home landscaping design may be your best solution.

The best time of year to plant trees is the springtime. The second-best time of year is late fall or even winter. You may choose to plant a young tree during the summer, but if so, then be sure to use one of the new wilt-proof sprays that help the leaves avoid moisture loss until the roots get well established. And if you are planting a tree that is taller than 6 ft., try to make sure that it's moved with a burlap root ball to protect the roots.

Preparing the soil is extremely important for both tree and shrub planting. Generally speaking, it's good to dig a hole about 2 ft. deep and about a foot wider in each direction than the full spread of the trees roots. Then make sure that the soil at the bottom of the whole is loosened quite a bit and is mixed with peat, loam, and fertilizer, before placing the tree in the hole. If for any reason you come across a layer of hard clay or building rubble as you dig your hole, be sure to remove a good portion of a that material and substitute in its place good soil that will promote growth for the tree right away. If you fail to do this, a new tree will most often not be able to get the nutrients that it needs and stands a good chance of dying.

A lot of people overuse manure as they feel that a lot ot it will benefit the tree. However manure should only be used sparingly on the top of the tree hole and not around the roots, as it can actually burn the tree instead.

For planting seedlings that are not balled in burlap, it's a good idea to protect it before planting by giving it a mud bath, or puddling it. This protects the roots from exposure to the air before planting. When you have dug the hole to the proper depth for the seedling, fill the hole with water to allow the soil to settle at the bottom. Once the water is drained, then put the tree in position and apply the soil and settle at around the tree's roots. Be sure to work the soil in closely to the roots, and don't allow air pocket's to develop in the hole. When the hole is two thirds full, pack it with soil tightly again and fill with water. Then go ahead and fill the soil up to ground level afterward.

Planting a balled tree root is somewhat easier because the root ball is being held in place by the burlap. So dig a hole about twice the size of the root ball and plant immediately. If the ground is dry when planting, fill the hole with water and let it soak in well before you actually insert the tree. Once the tree is in position, cut the top of the burlap and roll it back a few inches. It will eventually rot away into the soil that way.

After the first year, cultivate the tree as much as you can and keep weeds away by applying straw or mulch in both the spring and fall. This will also help keep moisture in the ground as well.

By following the guidelines listed here in this article you should be able to plant any tree correctly and successfully, and enjoy it's beauty for years to come.

Thad Pickering writes on many consumer related topics including home improvement. You can find free landscaping ideas and front yard landscaping ideas by visiting our Home Improvement website.

Is your garden design lacking aesthetic beauty? Ever considered contemporary wall water fountains as a design idea? Garden and landscape design tends to be looked at as a relatively recent form of art in its most modern sense, dating back to the Italian villas of the time of the Renaissance in the 14th century. Designing a great looking garden requires a good working knowledge of several different disciplines; including topography, land usage, horticulture, and architectural elements.

Because most modern garden spaces do not have the space necessary to create much organization, and may take in elements from the city surrounding it, one of the greatest hardscape elements that you can add is contemporary wall water fountains, because wall fountains allow you to add aesthetic beauty and bold design without taking up too much space. Additionally, you won't necessarily be competing too strongly with the design in the rest of the garden.

Outdoor wall fountains are available in a multitude of shapes, styles and designs that include stand alone fountains, and fountains that can be attached to a vertical surface and suspended. Most wall fountains are stand-alone structures that involve cycling water from a catch basin at the bottom of the fountain to the top again creating a sheet of water over a visually appealing surface.

Outdoor wall fountains come in a variety of different materials, some of which are designed with tremendous longevity and others, which may not have the properties to withstand decades of use such as fiberglass. Two important things to consider are if the materials can withstand the weather and secondly, how the material will impact the weight of the fountain and the surface it is attached to. Fountains that are suspended from a vertical surface, for example, require sturdy but lightweight materials which are where imitation metals and stone materials are used.

The primary goal of contemporary wall water fountains in modern garden design is to provide a visual focus on the garden, especially one that has an auditory focus as well. Someone who is sitting in the garden can rest and listen to the sound of water, tuning out the rest of the world in what is essentially their unique and sacred space.

It's recommended that a few key design elements should be implemented in your garden design in addition to your contemporary wall water fountains. One is a walkway that leads through your contemporary or modern garden, and then some sort of tie in, using bushes, shrubs or trellises that will allow you to coordinate with your fountains. You should also regularly cycle through planting beds, using different bulbs in order to give your modern or contemporary garden a fresh look and a lovely scent.

If you are looking to create a stunning space even when you do not have much room in your contemporary garden, then contemporary wall water fountains are an outstanding addition, especially because there are so many different types of fountains available and you are sure to find the perfect fountain for the space that you have to work with. Choosing the right fountains essentially means beginning by looking for fountains that match up with the elements of the climate in your area. Your water fountains need to handle sunlight, rain, snow and any other elements. Your modern garden will certainly be improved if you bring in a fountain that coordinates with your garden and does not demand too much space.

Elizabeth Jean writes water fountain and related articles for Garden-Fountains.com, the #1 destination on the internet for wall fountains, garden fountains, and distinctive water features.

INSURED - A person or a corporation who contracts for an insurance policy that indemnifies (protects) him against loss or damage to property or, in the case of a liability policy, defend him against a claim from a third party.

NAMED INSURED - Any person, firm or corporation specifically designated by name as an insured(s) in a policy as distinguished from others who, though unnamed, are protected under some circumstances. For example, a common application of this latter principle is in auto liability policies wherein by a definition of "insured", coverage is extended to other drivers using the car with the permission of the named insured. Other parties can also be afforded protection of an insurance policy by being named an "additional insured" in the policy or endorsement.

ADDITIONAL INSURED - An individual or entity that is not automatically included as an insured under the policy of another, but for whom the named insureds policy provides a certain degree of protection. An endorsement is typically required to effect additional insured status. The named insureds impetus for providing additional insured status to others may be a desire to protect the other party because of a close relationship with that party (e.g., employees or members of an insured club) or to comply with a contractual agreement requiring the named insured to do so (e.g., customers or owners of property leased by the named insured).

CO-INSURANCE - The sharing of one insurance policy or risk between two or more insurance companies. This usually entails each insurer paying directly to the insured their respective share of the loss. Co-insurance can also be the arrangement by which the insured, in consideration of a reduced rate, agrees to carry an amount of insurance equal to a percentage of the total value of the property insured. An example is if you have guaranteed to carry insurance up to 80% or 90% of the value of your building and/or contents, whatever the case may be. If you don't, the company pays claims only in proportion to the amount of coverage you do carry.

The following equation is used to determine what amount may be collected for partial loss:

Amount of Insurance Carried x Loss

Amount of Insurance that = Payment

Should be Carried

Example A Mr. Right has an 80% co-insurance clause and the following situation:

$100,000 building value

$ 80,000 insurance carried

$ 10,000 building loss

By applying the equation for determining payment for partial loss, the following amount may be collected:

$80,000 x $10,000 = $10,000

$80,000

Mr. Right recovers the full amount of his loss because he carried the coverage specified in his co-insurance clause.

Example B Mr. Wrong has an 80% co-insurance clause and the following situation:

$100,000 building value

$ 70,000 insurance carried

$ 10,000 building loss

By applying the equation for determining payment for partial loss, the following amount may be collected:

$70,000 x $10,000 = $8,750

$80,000

Mr. Wrong's loss of $10,000 is greater than the company's limit of liability under his co-insurance clause. Therefore, Mr. Wrong becomes a self-insurer for the balance of the loss-- $1,250.

PREMIUM - The amount of money paid by an insured to an insurer for insurance coverage.

DEDUCTIBLE - The first dollar amount of a loss for which the insured is responsible before benefits are paid by the insurer; similar to a self-insured retention (SIR). The insurer's liability begins when the deductible is exhausted.

SELF INSURED RETENTION - Acts the same way as a deductible but the insured is responsible for all legal fees incurred in relation to the amount of the SIR.

POLICY LIMIT - The maximum monetary amount an insurance company is responsible for to the insured under its policy of insurance.

FIRST PARTY INSURANCE - Insurance that applies to coverage for an insureds own property or a person. Traditionally it covers damage to insureds property from whatever causes are covered in the policy. It is property insurance coverage. An example of first party insurance is BUILDERS RISK INSURANCE which is insurance against loss to the rigs or vessels in the course of their construction. It only involves the insurance company and the owner of the rig and/or the contractor who has a financial interest in the rig.

THIRD PARTY INSURANCE - Liability insurance covering the negligent acts of the insured against claims from a third party (i.e., not the insured or the insurance company - a third party to the insurance policy). An example of this insurance would be SHIP REPAIRER'S LEGAL LIABILITY (SRLL) - provides protection for contractors repairing or altering a customer's vessel at their shipyard, other locations or at sea; also covers the insured while the customer's property is under the "Care, Custody and Control" of the insured. A Commercial General Liability policy is needed for other coverages, such as slip-and-fall situations.

INSURABLE INTEREST - Any interest in something that is the subject of an insurance policy or any legal relationship to that subject that will trigger a certain event causing monetary loss to the insured. Example of insurable interest - ownership of a piece of property or an interest in that piece of property, e.g., a shipyard constructing a rig or vessel. (See BUILDERS RISK above)

LIABILITY INSURANCE - Insurance coverage that protects an insured against claims made by third parties for damage to their property or person. These losses usually come about as a result of negligence of the insured. In marine construction this policy is referred to an MGL, marine general liability policy. In non marine circumstances the policy is referred to as a CGL, commercial general liability policy. Insurance policies can be divided into two broad categories:

• First party insurance covers the property of the person who purchases the insurance policy. For example, a home owner's policy promising to pay for fire damage to the home owner's home is a first party policy. Liability insurance, sometimes called third party insurance, covers the policy holder's liability to other people. For example, a homeowners' policy might cover liability if someone trips and falls on the home owner's property. Sometimes one policy, such as in these examples, may have both first and third party coverage.
• Liability insurance provides two separate benefits. First, the policy will cover the damage incurred by the third party. Sometimes this is called providing "indemnity" for the loss. Second, most liability policies provide a duty to defend. The duty to defend requires the insurance company to pay for lawyers, expert witnesses, and court costs to defend the third party's claim. These costs can sometimes be substantial and should not be ignored when facing a liability claim.

UMBRELLA LIABILITY COVERAGE - This type of liability insurance provides excess liability protection. Your business needs this coverage for the following three reasons:

• It provides excess coverage over the "underlying" liability insurance you carry.
• It provides coverage for all other liability exposures, excepting a few specifically excluded exposures. This subject to a large deductible of about $10,000 to $25,000.
• It provides automatic replacement coverage for underlying policies that have been reduced or exhausted by loss.

NEGLIGENCE - The failure to use reasonable care. The doing of something which a reasonably prudent person would not do, or the failure to do something which a reasonably prudent person would do under like circumstances. Negligence is a 'legal cause' of damage if it directly and in natural and continuous sequence produces or contributes substantially to producing such damage, so it can reasonably be said that if not for the negligence, the loss, injury or damage would not have occurred.

GROSS NEGLIGENCE - A carelessness and reckless disregard for the safety or lives of others, which is so great it appears to be almost a conscious violation of other people's rights to safety. It is more than simple negligence, but it is just short of being willful misconduct. If gross negligence is found by the trier of fact (judge or jury), it can result in the award of punitive damages on top of general and special damages, in certain jurisdictions.

WILLFUL MISCONDUCT - An intentional action with knowledge of its potential to cause serious injury or with a reckless disregard for the consequences of such act.

PRODUCT LIABILITY - Liability which results when a product is negligently manufactured and sent into the stream of commence. A liability that arises from the failure of a manufacturer to properly manufacture, test or warn about a manufactured object.

MANUFACTURING DEFECTS - When the product departs from its intended design, even if all possible care was exercised.

DESIGN DEFECTS - When the foreseeable risks of harm posed by the product could have been reduced or avoided by the adoption of a reasonable alternative design, and failure to use the alternative design renders the product not reasonably safe.

INADEQUATE INSTRUCTIONS OR WARNINGS DEFECTS - When the foreseeable risks of harm posed by the product could have been reduced or avoided by reasonable instructions or warnings, and their omission renders the product not reasonably safe.

PROFESSIONAL LIABILITY INSURANCE - Liability insurance to indemnify professionals, (doctors, lawyers, architects, engineers, etc.,) for loss or expense which the insured professional shall become legally obliged to pay as damages arising out of any professional negligent act, error or omission in rendering or failing to render professional services by the insured. Same as malpractice insurance.

Professional Liability has expanded over the years to include those occupations in which special knowledge, skills and close client relationships are paramount. More and more occupations are considered professional occupations, as the trend in business continues to grow from a manufacturing-based economy to a service-oriented economy. Coupled with the litigious nature of our society, the companies and staff in the service economy are subject to greater exposure to malpractice claims than ever before.

ERRORS AND OMISSIONS - Same as malpractice or professional liability insurance.

HOLD HARMLESS AGREEMENT - A contractual arrangement whereby one party assumes the liability inherent in the situation, thereby relieving the other party of responsibility. For example, a lease of premises may provide that the lessee must "hold harmless" the lessor for any liability from accidents arising out of the premises.

INDEMNIFY - To restore the victim of a loss, in whole or in part, by payment, repair, or replacement.

INDEMNITY AGREEMENTS - Contract clauses that identify who is to be responsible if liabilities arise and often transfer one party's liability for his or her wrongful acts to the other party.

WARRANTY - An agreement between a buyer and a seller of goods or services detailing the conditions under which the seller will make repairs or fix problems without cost to the buyer.

Warranties can be either expressed or implied. An EXPRESS WARRANTY is a guarantee made by the seller of the goods which expressly states one of the conditions attached to the sale e.g.,"This item is guaranteed against defects in construction for one year".

An IMPLIED WARRANTY is usual in common law jurisdictions and attached to the sale of goods by operation of law made on behalf of the manufacturer. These warranties are not usually in writing. Common implied warranties are a warranty of fitness for use (implied by law that if a seller knows the particular purpose for which the item is purchased certain guarantees are implied) and a warranty of merchantability (a warranty implied by law that the goods are reasonably fit for the general purpose for which they are sold).

DAMAGES OR LOSS - The monetary consequence which results from injury to a thing or a person.

CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES - As opposed to direct loss or damage -- is indirect loss or damage resulting from loss or damage caused by a covered peril, such as fire or windstorm. In the case of loss caused where windstorm is a covered peril, if a tree is blown down and cuts electricity used to power a freezer and the food in the freezer spoils, if the insurance policy extends coverage for consequential loss or damage then the food spoilage would be a covered loss. Business Interruption insurance, extends consequential loss or damage coverage for such items as extra expenses, rental value, profits and commissions, etc.

LIQUIDATED DAMAGES - Are a payment agreed to by the parties of a contract to satisfy portions of the agreement which were not performed. In some cases liquidated damages may be the forfeiture of a deposit or a down payment, or liquidated damages may be a percentage of the value of the contract, based on the percentage of work uncompleted. Liquidated damages are often paid in lieu of a lawsuit, although court action may be required in many cases where liquidated damages are sought. Liquidated damages, as opposed to a penalty, are sometimes paid when there is uncertainty as to the actual monetary loss involved. The payment of liquidated damages relieves the party in breech of a contract of the obligation to perform the balance of the contract.

SUBROGATION - "To stand in the place of" Usually found in property policies (first party) when an insurance company pays a loss to an insured or damaged to the insureds property, the insurer stands in the shoes of the insured and may pursue any third party who might be responsible for the loss. For example, if a defective component is sold to a manufacturer to be used in his product and that product is damaged due to the defective component. The insurance company who pays the loss to the manufacturer of the product may sue the manufacturer of the defective component.

Subrogation has a number of sub-principles namely:

• The insurer cannot be subrogated to the insureds right of action until it has paid the insured and made good the loss.
• The insurer can be subrogated only to actions which the insured would have brought himself.
• The insured must not prejudice the insurer's right of subrogation. Thus, the insured may not compromise or renounce any right of action he has against the third party if by doing so he could diminish the insurer's right of recovery.
• Subrogation against the insurer. Just as the insured cannot profit from his loss the insurer may not make a profit from the subrogation rights. The insurer is only entitled to recover the exact amount they paid as indemnity, and nothing more. If they recover more, the balance should be given to the insured.
• Subrogation gives the insurer the right of salvage.

In its history of providing insurance services to its clients for over thirty years, Nausch Hogan & Murray has provided coverage for all areas of liability - both on land and at sea.

Over the years Nausch Hogan & Murray has found it helpful to draft a glossary of useful insurance terms that come up time and again in discussions with an insured concerning their coverage needs. We hope these help you as well.

Cats are some of the best pets imaginable. Far more independent than dogs, they still enjoy human company and are an endless source of entertainment and comfort. As a cat owner, one of the things you will definitely want to avoid is letting your cat go outside. It's a big, dangerous world for felines and there are many reasons why your cat should stay indoors where he will be safe and sound.

Here are just a few of the reasons why it's not safe for your cat to head out into the great outdoors.

1. Physical dangers. There are many things that can happen to an unsuspecting cat, especially one who has been indoors his entire life. Busy streets, larger animals, and other dangers make taking a stroll a potentially deadly adventure for your cat.

2. Parasites and insects. You can save yourself a fortune on vet fees by keeping your cat indoors. Even just a few minutes outside can result in ticks, fleas and intestinal parasites that can cause disease and require a visit to the vet, as well as expensive medications and treatments.

3. Responsibility. When you took your cat home with you, there was responsibility taken. Cats have been domesticated for thousands of years. They need their humans for comfort, food and security.

4. Disease. Sadly, there are a lot of nasty illnesses that could affect your cat. From feline AIDS to rabies, there are many, many things your cat could be infected with, simply by coming into contact with other animals outside. Some of these can be treated, of course, but not all of them are curable and most pet owners don't want to put their cat through the suffering of a debilitating disease.

5. Animal control. Even a cat who has owners can end up being picked up by animal control and taken in. This can happen for a number of reasons . . . perhaps the cat was lost or injured and someone rescued it and called animal control, or it might simply be a routine sweep for animals without ID collars.

6. Human problems. It can be dangerous not only to cats, but also to humans to let your cat out. When a cat dashes across the street in front of a car, the driver usually swerves to miss. This is a huge cause of car accidents, trying to avoid hitting an animal on the road.

But It's Natural!

Many people feel that cats, even pedigree cats, should really be allowed outside. It's the natural way of things, after all. But when that natural way means your cat faces death every time he steps out the door, it's your responsibility to keep him indoors and safe.

You wouldn't let your children play in traffic or leave your toddler to play alone outside, so why should your cat be left to his own devices. Cats are no longer able to care for themselves and protect themselves as they may have been thousands of years ago when they were still feral. These days, they need to be indoors, away from the perils and it is well worth it to protect your feline friends.

What may seem natural to some is simply dangerous. The fact that cats still hunt mice and stalk birds doesn't mean that they are capable of living in the wild successfully anymore. The hunting instinct remains intact, but the practical use of it does not.

The simple fact of the matter is that it's dangerous for your pedigreed cat to be outdoors. There are too many bad things that could happen and you would forever blame yourself. Why let your cats suffer? Keep them inside.

Shannon Hutcheson runs Cattery-Index.com, a cat breeder's community and resource site for cat breeders and cat fanciers around the world. When looking for information on cat breeder resources, visit Cattery Index Magazine online.